Fun With Bejeweled 2

Looks like it's time to write another blog post. This one is on Bejeweled 2. On the right is an annotated screenshot of the game. The game is currently in Classic mode. There are eight modes total. In each mode, the basic rules are simple: Switch the positions of gems to create rows or columns of three or more. You may only swap a pair of gems if they are right next to each other and, when swapped, will form at least one three-in-a-row. When gems line up, they disappear, and new ones fall in to take their place. If any falling gems create rows or columns, they will disappear as well. Each match scores points. A four-in-a-row (henceforth referred to as a four) will convert one of the gems in the match to a power gem. A power gem glows, and when used in a three or more, will detonate. All the gems within the Power Gem Detonation Area (PGDA) will be destroyed. If a power gem happens to be in the PGDA, it will detonate as well. Thus, several power gems clustered together may cause a chain reaction, The PGDA shown is for the red power gem. A T-shaped or L-shaped match (both use five gems) will also create a power gem. When a five-in-a-row (henceforth referred to as a five) is matched, a hyper cube is created. There are four in the screenshot; this is uncommon. A hyper cube is the most awesome item in Bejeweled 2; it may be swapped with any of the four gems next to it at any time. When a swap occurs, every gem with the same color as the swapped gem is destroyed. Power gems of the same color as the swapped gem will detonate. Each match, power gem detonation, and hyper cube use will add to the Progress Bar. When the Progress Bar is filled, the level is complete, and a cool animation plays.

Each match will score points, according to the following rules:

1) The base score is ten points.

2) Each gem in the row/column beyond three adds ten points to the base score, up to five gems; a sixth gem will add 20 points.

3) Each row/column in the match progressively scores more points:
1st match: 10 points
2nd match: 20
3rd match: 30
4th match: 40
5th match: 60
6th match: 80
and so on. The rate at which the points increase increases as well, to a maximum of 210 points.

4) Each level adds 5 points to the base score. So, at level 4, a three-part combo would receive 150 points minimum (25 + 50 + 75).

5) Each power gem detonation multiplies the score for the row/column by 3.5. So, a three at level 1 with a power gem will score 35 points.

6) Each gem destroyed by a hyper cube scores twice the base score; each power gem destroyed scores six times the base score.


The eight modes are as follows:

Classic: The basic game; ends when no moves are available.

Action: A timed version of the game. The Progress Bar moves steadily downward; gems fall in such a way that there is always at least one move. When the Progress Bar reaches the bottom, the game ends. The Warning Lights flash when the Progress Bar gets low. Base score is 200; each level adds 100 to that.

Puzzle: Gives you a series of unscored puzzles to solve. Hints are free. Puzzles feature bombs, which blow up after a set number of moves; and rocks, which can only be destroyed by bombs, power gems, and hyper cubes.

Endless: Like Classic, but there is always at least one move. Base score is 100; levels do not add points.

Twilight: Obtained by beating level 18 of Classic, Twilight features alternating gravity: half of the time, the gems fall up. The entire game is slower here.

Hyper: Like Action, but at least twice as fast. Obtained by beating level 8 of Action.

Cognito: Obtained by beating all 80 puzzles of Puzzle. Like Puzzle, but scored.

Finity: By beating level 280 of Endless, this mode is unlocked. Like Action, but points are scored only by power gem and hyper cube detonation. Bombs, rocks, and power gems occasionally fall.


Anyone can dive right in and start swapping gems, but this is the fastest way to earn yourself a "No Moves". Follow these tips to increase your score:

1) Don't waste hyper cubes. These vortices are like a "Get Out Of Jail Free" card; as long as at least one is on the board, you have a move. Save them until you have no conventional moves.

2) Power gems can blow up hyper cubes. Make sure that your 'cubes are out of any PGDA. If you cannot make a move without blowing up a hyper cube, use the hyper cube.

3) Scan the board for combos. You can predict how the gems will fall.

4) Try to set up moves; each move that sets up another move is safe from the "No Moves" message.

5) If you know that no hyper cubes are going to be coming along for a while, get as many power gems as possible.

6) Try to concentrate on getting lots of the same color gem into the board; this makes a prime target for combos and hyper cube use.

7) In Action, at higher levels, don't think. Swap as fast as possible.

8) Don't use the hint button; it reduces your score and your Progress Bar.

Happy Bejeweling!

Rollerscape

And now for something completely different. I currently have four Rollerscape sets; they are essentially marble rollercoasters. They are also a source of endless frustration. The reason for this is manifold. First, the rails require banking. This is fun, but it is also a pain, because adjusting the banking on one section automatically screws up the rest of the track. Each set comes with 194 pieces with a penchant for trying to break. The marbles get lost, and become found when one slips on them. The track seems to have a mind of its own, and attaching bracers requires awkward manipulations. Perhaps I should explain more about these toys. They each come with the following:

Two (2) long plastic flexible rails. Do not cut these; you won't be able to glue them back together.
Six (6) small black plastic marbles. These are the parts that fall off the track if you did it wrong.
Two (2) neon-green antennas. These are completely useless.
Sixteen (16) L-shaped track supports.
Sixteen (16) C-shaped clamps.
One (1) hell of a lot of track bracers. These come in two types: two-grip and three-grip. The two-grips are designed to hold the rails apart so the marbles can roll on them. The three-grips do that, and also attach to the L-supports, which attach to the C-supports, which attach to the frame pieces. These frame pieces come in three sizes: small, medium, and large. Each size is designed to act as a diagonal for a square made up of the next smaller size. They attach to each other by way of plastic balls with holes in them. The frame pieces come in an indeterminate quantity known as Not Enough. You need at least two sets to get anywhere, and I want several more. The rails also have a length of Not Long Enough, and no matter what, you will run out of length on one rail before the other. This means that there is an unsightly rail sticking out, getting in the way.



Now we come to the fun part. After you figure out how to open the box (there are three tabs that must be removed), you take the parts out of their plastic bags and set up a frame. My three sets allow for a nice big 2*2*5 box (I use mediums for measurements) with plenty of bigs for diagonals. The smalls are useful for protrusions (like when you need a support outside the box) and the entry path (on top of the box). Anyway, you then assemble a support and connect it to the top. After that, the process of assembling a track is a matter of adding a support, testing, adding bracing, testing, adjusting bracers and banking, testing, trying to get the track to do what you want it to do, testing, adjusting AGAIN, testing, and adjusting the frame. When you finally finish the track, you will find that the marble falls off. Guess what time it is? Right; adjusting, testing, wash, rinse, repeat. Despite this, I have managed to build several nifty tracks, including one with a corkscrew (do not try this; it nearly brought me to tears trying to get it right) and, more recently, one with a series of overbanked curves. This toy is a perfectionist-tweaker's nightmare, but I love it anyway.

A few tips I've learned:

1) Tight curves cause marbles to lose lots of speed.
2) Don't use the method shown on the box to support loops; it wastes supports and causes the loop to flop over.
3) Test early, test often. Each support you add should be followed by testing.
4) Buy multiple sets. The extra pieces mean more freedom.
5) Don't go too far down too early; uphill sections are all but impossible, and there is nothing worse than having track left and no speed left.
6) However, don't stay in the higher reaches too long; you will run out of track.
7) Do NOT try to thread a track through a loop; build the loop around the track. In the same vein, don't try to thread the track through really tight spaces without testing; the marble might get stuck.
8) Leftover bracers can act as guardrails.
9) Barrel rolls will not work. EDIT: Actually, they will, but it's almost impossible.
10) Don't make a steep drop when the marble has lots of speed; it will fly off.
11) Don't buy the small set or the big set: the small set is too small and the big set is too expensive.
12) All of what I said (except for the part counts and the eleventh tip) goes for the Space Odyssey sets.
13) Try to have fun. If the marbles keep falling off, suck it up and adjust, adjust, adjust.

A final word of advice: Start simple. Don't build a complex track with lots of hills and loops until you can estimate what the marble will do.